Yurtdışı Seyahat

Gürcistan

Haziran 25, 2018

Hiç görmediğim farklı bir coğrafyada bir doğa gezisine çıkmak ilk başta çok güzel bir fikir gibi gelmişti. Takip ettiğim ve güvendiğim bir hesabın önerdiği fakat ilerleyen satırlarda göreceğiniz gibi turizm rebherliğinin “ş” sinden anlamayan biriyle tura çıkmak ne yanlış bir kararmış, kısa zamanda anladım. Turizm Rehberliği kelimesinde “Ş” yok evet, anlayın işte adam o kadar alakalıydı rehberlikle…

Sonda söyleyeceğimi başta söyleyeyim; tanımadığınız, güvenmediğiniz kişi ya da şirketlerle asla ve asla tura gitmeyin. Burada “parama geçer hükmüm” diyen anneme bir kez daha saygılarımı sunmak istiyorum. 3 kuruş daha verin kafanız rahat olsun, tatil burnunuzdan gelmesin.

Bu seyahate kadar Gürcistan’ın Svaneti bölgesinde yer alan Mestia şehrindeki kulelerinden, yani Svan kulelerinden hiç haberim yoktu. Gittiğimi söylediğimde kimsenin haberinin olmaması bölgenin henüz tanınmadığını dolayısıyla bozulmadığını gösteriyordu bir anlamda. Bu bilinmez tatilin tek ümit verici yanı da buydu zaten.

Türkiye’de yaşayan pek çok Gürcü kökenli vatandaşımız olması sebebiyle kültürüne yakın olduğumuz bir ülke Gürcistan. 300 yıl kadar Osmanlı egemenliğinde kalan ülke 1991’de Rusya’dan bağımsızlığını kazanmış. İçinde pek çok farklı kültürü barındırması sebebiyle ülkemiz gibi renkli bir yer Gürcistan.
Gezinin asıl hedefi olan Mestia’daki benzersiz kulelerinin geçmişi Orta Çağ’a dayanıyormuş. Düşman saldırılarından korunmak ve gözetleme amaçlı yapılan kuleler 25 metreye kadar yükselebiliyormuş. Bu bilgileri gitmeden google’da yaptığım araştırmalar sonucunda bulmuştum. Rehberimiz(!) buranın tarihine dair tek kelime etmedi sağolsun. Anlatmak için önce bilmek gerekir, öyle değil mi?
Sevgili İlber Ortaylı, cahiller ne olsundu?..

Gürcistan gezisi için İstanbul’dan Trabzon’a uçup, otobüsle Sarp sınır kapısına kadar 2,5 saatlik bir yolculuk yaptık. Sınırdan geçtikten 15-20 dakika sonra Batum şehir merkezine vardık. Kara ya da uçak sınırından Gürcistan’a TC kimlikleriyle girebiliyorsunuz, pasaporta bile gerek yok.  Bence Gürcistan’a gitmek isteyenler direkt uçakla Batum’a gitsinler.  Artvin’e gidenler bile böyle yapıyorken biz niye kulağı tersten gösterdik belli değil.
Karadenizli esprisi de yapamam, ben de yarı lazım.

Batum, beklentimin çok üzerinde çok güzel ve modern bir şehirdi. Aynı denize bakan 2 şehrin farklı yönetilmesinden dolayı bambaşka olması anlaşılır ancak doğasının bu kadar farklı olması çok enteresan. Karadeniz’de denize dik inen dağların, Sarp kapısından girdiğiniz anda yerini geniş ovalara bırakması çok ilginç. Bu manzara için sahilden hareket eden ve 10 – 15 dakikada tepeye varan teleferiğe binmenizi ve şehre bir de en tepeden bakmanızı öneririm.

Batum, kumar turizmi ve vergisiz gümrüğü sebebiyle Karadeniz insanlarının yakından tanıdığı bir şehir.  Gürcülerin ana geçim kaynağının Türkler olması sebebiyle de hemen herkes Türkçe konuştuğu için karşılıklı hiç yabancılık çekilmiyor. Şehrin merkezinde çoğu yerde TL kullanabiliyorsunuz. Ancak Batum’daki yardımsever ve güleryüzlü insanların kasabalara ve köylere gittikçe değiştiğini, yerini uzlaşmaz ve asık suratlara bıraktığını belirtmem gerek.

Batum’da modern meydanlar,

Rus etkisinden kalma güzel binalar;

Halkın sınırsızca faydalandığı geniş ve yemyeşil park ve oyun alanları;

Çocukların oynaması ve suyun tadını çıkarması için bol bol fişkiye alanları vardı. 🙂

Batum’da beni en mutlu eden şeylerden biri de Batum’un simge yapılarından olan Ali ve Nino heykeliydi.

Heykelin videosunu sosyal medyada gördüğümde, altında hiçbir bilgi olmadığı için nerede olduğuna, kimin yaptığına dair bir bilgim olamadı ama o kadar beğenmiştim ki görmeyi çok içten dilemiştim.
Batum’ da olduğunu bilmiyordum. Orada heykeli karşımda gördüğümde ne kadar mutlu olduğumu anlatamam. Bu vesileyle bir kez daha anladım ki kişi bir şeyi gönülden istemeye görsün mutlaka bir gün gerçek oluyor.
Heykel, deniz boyunca uzanan 7 km’lik Batumi Bulvarı’nın doğu ucunda bulunuyor. Azeri yazar Kurban Sayid’in, Gürcü Prenses Nino ve Azeri sosyete temsilcisi Ali’nin imkansız aşkını anlattığı romanına ithafen yapılan bu çelik heykeli Tamara Kvesitadze ve Paata Sanajya yapmış ve 2010 yılında buraya konulmuş. Bir turun tamamlanması 10 dakika sürüyor ama aşağıdaki hızlandırılmış videoyu izlemeden geçmeyin, bence çok etkileyici.

Heykelin hemen arkasında dönme dolap var. Şehir oldukça düz olduğu için 1 tur binip hem çocukluğunuza dönmenin tadını çıkarabilir hem de şehri dönme dolabın tepesinden görebilirsiniz.
Foto ve videolardan görebileceğiniz gibi bu seyahatte bol bol döndük çocukluğumuza…

Türkiye’de belgesel deyince akla gelen ilk isim olan Coşkun Aral’ın bir belgeselinde izlediğimden  Batum’daki Botanik Bahçesi hakkında biraz fikrim vardı. Kısa bir sürede gezmek zorunda kalsak da Türkçe konuşan ve bize gönüllü rehberlik yapan görevli sayesinde pek çok bilgi aldık.
Batum Botanik Bahçesi 1914’te yapılmış yani tam 104 yaşında. 108 hektar büyüklüğünde bir alana yayılmış. Kimilerinizin anlayacağı şekilde söylemek gerekirse 155 futbol sahası büyüklüğünde.

2500 çeşit ağaç varmış.
1500 çeşit çilek varmış. Ah olsa da yesek… 😛
Okaliptüs ağacının 1 günde 100lt su çekebildiğini biliyor muydunuz?  Bu sebeple bataklık çevrelerinde tercih edilen bir ağaçmış.

Tam 180 kişi çalışıyormuş.
Bambu ağacının günde 1 metre büyüyebildiğini öğrendim mesela. En fazla da 25 metre oluyormuş.
25 çeşit manolya varmış. Ocak ayında bile açanı varmış.
Manolya demişken İstanbul’da Bebek İnşirah Yokuşu’nun sonundaki bu şahane yabani manolyayı tek geçerim.

Bir dahaki gelişimde bir tam günümü ayırmak üzere keyifli duygularla ayrılıyorum Botanik Bahçesi’nden.

Batum’dan daha öteye gidecekseniz ve oralarda para bozdururum diye düşünüyorsanız aman diyeyim bütün işinizi şehirden ayrılmadan halledin. Bizim rehberin yapığı gibi Batum’dan çıktıktan sonra para bozdurmadığını unutup bulduğu son dövizcide para gelecek diye 2 saat beklemeyin, bekletmeyin.
Diyorum ya inciler inciler…

 

Batum’dan sonra ilk durağımız Cabuneti. Burası Rusya’nın aristokrasisinin sayfiye yeriymiş. Upuzun sahiliyle ve geniş yeşil alanlarıyla tam bir emeklilik cennetiydi. Cabuneti’ye gece saatlerinde vardığımız için yemek yiyip hemen yattık. Sabah erken kalkıp denize girdik. Deniz temizdi ama ne de olsa Karadeniz. Gözlükte bile dibi görünmeyen deniz benim için tehlikeli deniz.

Deniz keyfinden sonra kahvaltımızı yapıp tekrar yola koyulduk. Yol üstünde önemli merkezlerden olan Gürcistan Katolik Başpiskoposluğuna uğradık. Abhaz’ların da katolik kolunun tapınma yeri olması sebebiyle ilginç olabilir diye düşünmüştüm ama kapalı olduğu için içini göremedik.  Dışardan güzel fotoğraflar verse de keşke açık günlerini kontrol edip ona göre plana dahil edilseydi değil mi?

Burdan sonra Zugdidi Tarih ve Etnoğrafya Müzesi’ne gittik ama tesadüfe bakın ki orası da kapalıydı. Tatilin bu kadar başından nasıl bir rehberle gezdiğimizi sanıyorum anladınız.

 
Burası da geniş yeşil alanları ve düzenli yollarıyla tipik bir Rus kasabasıydı. Zugdidi’de yerel bir lokantada çok ucuza ve güzelce karnımızı doyurduktan sonra Mestia’ya doğru yola koyulduk.  Gürcistan çok ucuz evet ama para birimi Lari’nin 1.71 TL olduğunu da belirteyim.

Gittiğimiz yerler arasındaki mesafeler çok uzaktı. Hep uzun uzun yol gittik. Yol üstünde Rus mimarisinin tipik örneği aynı tür evler ve yemyeşil alanlar ve uzaktan görünen Kafkas dağları dışında çok fazla resmedilecek şey yoktu.

Siz de benim gibi otobüsle bu kadar uzun yol gitmeyi sevmiyor sadece Svaneti bölgesini göreyim diyorsanız (mecburen aktarmalı tabi) Mestia Queen Tamar havaalanına uçmanızı öneririm.

Mestia’da Enguri buzul nehri kenarında mütevazi bir butik otelde kaldık. Daha önce gidenlerin yazılarına baktığımda burdaki gibi ayrı tuvaletli, temiz otel bulmak pek mümkün değilmiş. Bizim otelimiz çok temizdi, hatta ücretsiz wi-fi bile vardı. Yalnız yemek hazırlayan kadınların asık suratlarını ne siz sorun ne ben söyleyeyim. Suratları sirke satıyordu ama ellerinin lezzetine diyecek yoktu.

Gürcülerin az çeşitli, bol hamurlu ama çok lezzetli bir yemek kültürleri var. Hele bir Haçapuri dedikleri peynirli hamur işi var ki yeme de yanında yat. Sabah akşam verdiler, sabah akşam yedik. Epeydir hamur yemiyorum ama o 1 haftada neredeyse 1 yıllık stoğumu yaptığımı söyleyebilirim. Bu vesileyle önemli bilgi; hamur yemeyen Gürcistan’a gitmesin.

Svaneti Bölgesi’ndeki günlük gezilerimize Chaladi Buzulu’yla başladık. Buzul demişken az önce bahsettiğim otelin yanında akan güçlü Enguri nehri Chaladi buzulundan doğup akıyor. Hatta giderken Mestia’ya varmadan tatlı su ve buzul suyunun birbirine karıştığı yeri görmüştük. Bu karışma anı tam bir doğa harikasıydı.

2750 metredeki Chaladi Buzulu için sabah erken kalkıp kahvaltıdan sonra yola çıktık.

Yürüyüş en fazla 2 saat sürer demişlerdi. Çıkarken yürüdüğümüz yol başta çok keyifliydi. Şırıl şırıl akan küçük dereler,  güneş olmasına rağmen nem olmaması,  yemyeşil bir doğa… Herşey çok güzeldi.  2 saate gidip geliriz diye çoğumuz yanımıza yiyecek de almamıştı haliyle. Rehberin 2 saat dediği yürüyüş neredeyse 6 saat sürdü. Açlıktan bayılmak üzereyken döndük kasabaya. Tecrübeli(!) rehberle gezmenin keyfi de bir başkaymış canım!.. Doğal fasting yaptırdı bize.

Belirli bir yükseklikten sonra bastığımız her yer buzdu artık. Mutlaka profesyonel bir yürüyüş ayakkabısıyla çıkmanızı öneririm. Spor ayakkabıyla gelenler yükseklerde sorun yaşadılar. Buz dağı fotoğraflardan anlaşılamayacağı için videosunu da koymak istedim.

2. gün 2800 rakımdaki Ushba Dağına çıktık. Ushba’da küçük minibüslerle ve inanılmaz sallantılı geçen bir yolculuktan sonra şahane bir manzara bizi bekliyordu. O kadar yüksek olmasına rağmen hava o kadar güzeldi ki sanki soluduğumuz oksijenin tadı bile farklıydı. Ushba Dağı’nın tepesindeki Koruldi Gölü’ne girer yüzeriz diye yanımıza bikinilerimizi bile almıştık ancak göl denilen bu su birikintisiymiş meğer.
Şaşırmayın, rehberin sadece önemli hatalarını yazıyorum. Her hareket saatinin sarktığını, arada uğradığımız otellerde rezervasyonumuz olmadığı için sokakta kalıp saatlerce yeni otel beklediğimizi, giderken taşıdığı valizleri dönüşe bize taşıttığını, sarhoş olup diğer müşterilerin üzerine yürüdüğünü filan yazarsam bu yazı bitmez.

Neyse ben yine kendimi doğaya vereyim.
Dağ ve kar havasının hafiften başıma vurmasıyla böyle videolar da çektim.

İlk kez bu kadar yükseğe çıktığım için benim için çok farklı bir deneyim oldu. Everest’e tırmanmış dağcı edasıyla söylemek gerekirse; dünyanın tepesinde olmak güzel bir hismiş. Hatta orada bu tırmanış ve yürüyüşler dışında ekstra spor yapmamış olmama rağmen döndükten sonraki koşularda çok daha rahat ettiğimi, daha iyi dereceler yaptığımı söylemem lazım. Sporcular sezon öncesi boşuna dağlarda kamp yapmıyorlar demek…

Temmuz ayında kar gören masum köylü fotoğrafımı koymadan olmaz. 🙂

 

Ertesi gün Mestia’ya 2 saat mesafedeki Ushguli’ye gittik. Burası 2300 metre rakımla üstünde yaz – kış sürekli yaşam olan Avrupa’nın en yüksek köyüymüş. Avrupa’nın evet. Dünya haritası kafa karıştırıyor değil mi?..

 

Müze diye para verip girdiğimiz bu yer, ahırla evlerin içiçe olduğu eski bir yerleşim yeriymiş.

Tek göz odada düzensizce dağıtılmış, toz içinde birkaç eski eşya dışında görecek fazla birşey olmadığını söylemeliyim. Yaşanmışlığı, eski eşyaları filan severim ancak memleketimizden kalkıp bu kadar uzak yerlere farklı kültürleri tanımaya gidiyorsak da 20 Lari verdiğimiz müzede 2 sandalyeden daha fazla şey görmeyi hakediyoruz diye düşünüyorum. Yoksa Usghuli’yi beğenmedim gibi algılanmasın.

Bizim dağ köylerimizde görmeye alışık olmadığımız şekilde çok güzel evler de vardı.

Ben doğasını çok beğenmiştim ama yakın bir coğrafya olan Rize’de gittiğim Yukarı Kavran yaylasından bir foto koyayım da acı fark görülsün o zaman.

Gruptan birilerinin topladığı çiçekleri, fotoğraf renkli çıksın diye elime tutuşturdular.

Ama bence çiçek yerinde güzel. Lütfen çiçekleri koparmayalım. Meşazsız olmaz!.. 🙂

Dünyanın yaşayan en yüksek köyünü sevmememin sadece çiçeklerin rengi olduğunu düşünmediniz sanırım. 🙂

Mestia akşamları da keyifli geçti. Yine önceki yazılarından gördüğüm ilk zamanlarda oturacak tek bir cafe bile yokken biz gittiğimizde birden fazla turistik mekan vardı. Diyorum ya burası çok yeni gelişen bir yer. Bu yüzden fazla bozulmadan bir an önce gidip görmek gerek. En keyiflisi de geleneksel şarkı ve dans gösterilerinin yapıldığı Cafe Laila idi.
https://www.tripadvisor.com.tr/Restaurant_Review-g1902860-d5003911-Reviews-Cafe_Laila-Mestia_Upper_Svaneti_Samegrelo_Zemo_Svaneti_Region.html
Çok sesli erkeklerin söylediği geleneksel şarkılar söylüyorlar, kızlı erkekli danslar ediyorlar. Gürcüce fonetik olarak Lazcaya benziyor ancak dansları Çerkes ve Abhaz danslarına daha çok benziyor. Kafkasya’daki kültürlerin iç içe geçmesi işte…
Neredeyse bütün turistler buradaydı. Hem yemek yiyebilir, hem de içkinizi içerken işini keyifle yapan yerel müzik grubunu izleyebilirsiniz.

Buradan başka birkaç tane daha keyifli mekan vardı. Bakkal, hediyelik eşya vs dükkanları küçücük kasaba meydanının etrafına dağılmış durumdaydı. Biz neredeyse her akşam aynı yere gittik ama değişiklik arayanlara sokaklarda keşif yapmalarını öneririm ancak beklentinizi de fazla yüksek tutmayın. Ne de olsa Svaneti bölgesi eğlence değil keşif için gideceğiniz bir yer.

Son olarak Gürcistan’da bol bol yürüdük, indik, çıktık, yüzdük, kızdık, bağırdık ve doğa olarak şahane olsa da rehberlik olarak rezil bir tur geçirdik.

Dönüşte Trabzon’da daha uçağa vaktimiz olduğu için birşeyler yemek için her zaman gittiğim yerlerin aksine tavsiye üzerine 1940’tan beri hizmet veren Muharrem Usta’da döner yedim. Güzeldi ancak o kadar da bayılmadığımı itiraf etmeliyim. Web sitesi yok, merak edenler arayıp bulabilir. (0462) 322 1349

Giderken Rize Lale Restaurant’da yemek yediğimizi ve çok beğendiğimi yazayım da bu da kayıtlara geçsin.   http://www.lalelokantasi.com/

Özellikle yaz aylarında gitmemizi salık vererek Liman Lokantası   https://www.tripadvisor.com.tr/Restaurant_Review-g673824-d3400255-Reviews-Liman_Lokantasi-Rize_Rize_Province_Turkish_Black_Sea_Coast.html

ve Huzur’u da tavsiye ettiler. http://www.huzurpide.com.tr/
Bir de meşhur kuru fasulyeci Hüsrev’i asıl burada deneyin dediler.  http://www.husrev.com.tr/
Bir dahaki gidişlerimde denemek üzere not alıyorum.
Son satır esprisi yok, yazı bitti.

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