Yurtdışı Seyahat

Strazburg – Colmar

Haziran 20, 2018

Uzun zaman sonra ilk kez daha önce gitmediğim bir yere gitmeye karar verdim.

Nereye gitsem diye düşünürken instagram’a en güzel fotoğraf veren yerlerden biri olan Colmar yarışı kazandı. Çete üyesi diğer kızları da örgütleyip Aralık’tan Mayıs ayında  yapacağımız seyahatin biletlerini aldık. Yine kampanya bileti biz karar verip alana kadar 600TL’ye yükseldi ama olsun. Bu devirde 600 Liraya Bodrum’a bile gidip gelinmiyor artık.

İlk önce Colmar’a gitmeye karar vermiştik ama uzun zaman Strazburg’da yaşayan bir arkadaşım Colmar’ın 4 gün için çok küçük olduğunu, Strazburg’da kalıp günübirlik ya da 1 geceliğine Colmar’a gitmemizi tavsiye edince planı değiştirip Strazburg‘da kalmaya karar verdik. Hangisine giderseniz gidin direkt uçmak istiyorsanız Basel’e gidip ordan geçmeniz gerekiyor zaten. Stutgart Havaalanı da yakınmış ama Basel, yarım saat daha yakın olduğu için biz Basel’e aldık.

Bilmeyenler için Basel, Avrupa’nın en enteresan havaalanlarından biri. 2 şehrin kesiştiği yere kurulmuş. Bir kapıdan İsviçre başka bir kapıdan Fransa çıkışı olan başka bir ülke yok sanırım. Bir kapıdan da Almanya diyorlar ama ben görmedim. İsviçre hala Shengen kabul etmediği için aman ha kapıları karıştırmayın ki dönüşte sorun yaşamayasınız.

Basel’e indikten sonra çıkış kapısının hemen önünden kalkan otobüslere 2 euro verip 10 dakika bile sürmeyen bir yolculukla Saint Louis tren istasyonuna gidiyorsunuz. Ana istasyon burası. Gitmek isteyeceğiniz her yere buradan kolayca ulaşabilirsiniz. 1 – 2 kişi gidiyorsanız taksi de tutabilirsiniz ama biz 5 kişi olduğumuzdan ve 2 taksiye valizlerle in-bin zor olacağından otobüsle gittik.

Trenlere ve saatlerine önceden bakın derim hep biliyorsunuz. Önceden biletleri almak her zaman çok ekonomik olsa da uçağın inişi ve pasaporttan çıkış saatleri değişkenlik gösterebileceğinden bunu yapmanızı önermiyorum; tren biletleri genellikle değiştirilemiyor çünkü. İstasyonlarda biletinizi trene binmeden kiosklara okutup öyle biniyorsunuz ki sonra trende sıkıntı çıkmasın. Bkz Floransa yazım…

Trenimizi kolaylıkla bulup bir kahve molası kadar bekledikten ve 1 saat,  25 euro tutan rahat bir yolculuktan sonra Strazburg’a vardık.

Her seyahatte olduğu gibi yine Airbnb’den tuttuğumuz evlerden birinde kaldık ama bu sefer biraz tatsız bir deneyim oldu açıkçası. Evin ortasına havalı dursun diye bir tane salıncak kurmuşlar ama gerisi tırt. Uzun uzun anlatıp geleceğe kötü anı aktarmak istemiyorum ama bundan sonra Airbnb’den ev tutarken daha dikkatli olmayı önce kendime sonra size salık veriyorum.

Alsace Bölgesi’nin başkenti, Gutenberg’in 1. Goethe’nin 2. vatanı Strazburg’dan çok fazla turistik bir beklentimiz yoktu açıkçası. Daha çok yeme – içme konularında bir beklentiyle gitmiştik. O yüzden estetik olarak bizi öyle aman aman tatmin ettiğini söyleyemeyeceğim. Yine sonda söyleyeceğimi başta söyleyeyim; fazla Avrupa şehri görmemiş biri için güzel gelebilir ancak Avrupa’da öncelikli olarak görmeniz gereken yer burası değil açıkçası. Asıl güzellikler burda değil. Fekat acele yok, azzz sonrrrraa!!..

Görülecek belli başlı yerleri ben önceden not almıştım ama sizin not almanıza bile gerek yok. Sokağa çıkıp kalabalıkların gittiği yerlere göre akışa bırakın kendinizi hemen her yeri göreceksiniz zaten.

Strazburg’un en önemli özelliği, şehri boydan boya kesen Ren Nehri’nin kolu olan kanalın nispeten temiz suyu ve nehir kenarı evlerinin renkleriyle ziyaretçilerine güzel bir manzara sunması.

Niyetimiz buraya gelen her turistin yaptığı nehir turuna katılmaktı ancak yoğun gündemimizden buna sıra gelmedi. Batorama adındaki botlarla düzenlenen bu kanal turlarını vakti olanlara tavsiye ederim. Su her zaman iyidir.

Ortaçağdan kalma taş kulelere ve üstü kapalı taş bir köprüye benzeyen 17. yüzyıl kalesi Place du Quartier Blanc tavsiye edilmişti ama göremedik. Ancak fazla bir kaybımız olduğunu düşünmüyorum. Bunları daha uzun vakti olan ve her yerini görmek isteyen gezginler için yazıyorum.

Teknelerin kalktığı yerin hemen arkasındaki küçük meydandan kafanızı kaldırdığınızda rahatlıkla görülen ve bu yıl 1003. yaşını kutlayan Fransa’nın 2. büyüğü Notre Dame Katedrali şehrin en turistik yeri. Önündeki alan fazla büyük olmadığı için profesyonel fotoğrafçı olmayanlar pek boydan resimleyemiyor. Bizden de en fazla bu çıktı.

Gotik detayları çok etkileyici olmakla beraber daha önce Avrupa’da çok kilise görmüş biriyseniz dışardan 1 – 2 foto çekip geçebilirsiniz.

Ben yine de içine girip birkaç artistik fotoğraf çektim ancak giriş ücretsiz diye girdim, paralı olsa hayatta girmezdim. Zaten euro’nun en yüksek olduğu zamanlara denk gelmiş, suyun 2 euro yerine 1 euro’luk olanını aradığımız bir dönemde bu kiliseye para veremezdim, gezi tanrıları hiç kusura bakmasın.

Tavsiye yazısı vereyim diye başlıyorum. Sonra bir bakıyorum orayı görmeyin buraya gitmeyin… Ne demeye yazıyorsun dediğinizi duyar gibiyim ama emin olunuz, görün kadar görmeyin de iyi bir tavsiyedir.

Strazburg’un en keyifli yeri kiliseye giden bu güzel sokaklardı. Bol bol fotoğraf çekip turistik gezinin gibine vuracağınız, dükkanların albenisine, vitrinlerin renklerine kanıp sonradan çok gereksiz gelecek pek çok hediyelik eşya alışverişi yapacağınız yer işte bu sokaklar. Hele Noel zamanı tadından yenmiyormuş. Gerçi Noel zamanı Avrupa’nın her yeri güzel. Işıl ışıl sokakların ve güzel süslemelerin devlet tarafından desteklendiği Alsace Bölgesi’ndeki her şehir gibi Strazburg’a da Noel’de gidilmeliymiş ama Mayıs’ta da güzeldi valla.

Gidemediğimiz için üzüldüğüm Rohan Sarayı var. Kilisenin hemen yanından girilen ve içinde Strazburg’un 3 önemli müzesinin (Arkeoloji Müzesi – Musée Archéologique, Dekoratif Sanatlar Müzesi – Musée des Arts Décoratifs ve Güzel Sanatlar Müzesi – Musée des Beaux-Arts) olduğu Rohan Sarayı da vakitsizliğimizin kurbanı oldu.

Cave Historique des Hospices adı verilen şarap mahzenini ise zaten gereksiz gördüğümüz için programa almamıştık. Şarap mahzeni görmek isteyenler ve vakti olanlar için yazıyorum.

Strasburg’da yeme – içme güzeldi. Size biraz onlardan bahsedeyim.

Başlamadan önce Strazburg’da hemen her restaurantta ve hemen her öğünde yiyebileceğiniz Tarte Flambe‘den haberiniz olsun.

Pizzayla lahmacun arası bu hamur işi sıradan görünebilir ama inanın çok güzel. Hem yurtdışında domuz eti stresi yaşayanlar için kaşarlısı var ve o bile çok güzel.

Bir de burada kaz ciğeri (Foie Gras) çok meşhur. Hemen her iyi restaurantın menüsünde var. Sevmeyene pek matah birşey değildir ama benim gibi seven için foie gras burada sebil ve şahane.

Macaronu bu bölgede güzel yapıyorlarmış ama neden o kadar pahalı ve tatlı olduğunu hiç anlamadığım ve sevmediğim için yemedim.

Bir de bizim simide benzer Bretzel isimli çörekleri var. Sokaklarda da çok satılıyordu. Yiyen arkadaşlarım bayılmadı, beni de hiç çekmedi.

Son olarak şarap yanında güzel giden, biraz aromatik geleneksel Munster peynirinden tatmadan, almadan gelmeyin diyorum.

Hadi bakalım, bence yazılarımın en güzel yeri olan yemek tavsiyelerine…

– Cafe Brant http://www.cafe-brant.fr/

Biz pazar günü erkenden kahvaltı için gittik ama günün diğer saatlerinde de tercih edebileceğiniz, hiç turistik olmayan, daha çok yerli halkın tercih ettiği şık cafe’ydi. Yerli halk dediğime bakmayın, en sıradanı bir İngiliz soylusu şıklığında ve terbiyesindeydi.

Turistik olmayan ifadesini sıkça kullandığımı farketmişsinizdir. Bizde olduğu gibi yurtdışında da “turistik yer” sadece bir kere gelen yabancıyı hedefleyen, kalabalık, kötü servisin olduğu, zevksiz ve lezzetsiz yer demektir benim lugatımda. O yüzden “turistik yer”den hep kaçınır, daha çok lokal halkın gittiği yerleri ararım.

– Kirn http://www.kirn-traiteur.fr/

Hem yemek yiyebileceğiniz hem de şarküteri barından alışveriş yapabileceğiniz güzel bir yermiş.


– Aedaen place http://www.aedaen-place.com/

Bir pizzacının içinden geçip sondaki gizli kapıdan bara geçilebilen ve İstanbul’daki Gizli Kalsın isimli pizzacıya ilham verdiğini düşündüğüm cafe. Biz gidemedik ama gidenler deneyimlerini anlatsınlar.


– Cafe Atlantico http://www.cafe-atlantico.net/

Kanal üzerinde bir teknede yemek yemek isteyenler için (alttaki fotoğrafta sağ köşedeki kırmızı tekne) güzel bir deneyim sunuyordu. Mutlaka görmenizi öneririm.

– La Hache http://www.la-hache.com/

Çok tavsiye edilen ve Petit France denilen trafiğe kapalı tarihi sokakların olduğu güzel bölgedeki Hache’yi gördük ama giremedik.

– Christian https://christian.fr/

Katedrale yakın pastane. Tatlı olarak kek gibi ama daha az şekerli olan Kugelhopf  önerilmişti ama yiyemedik. Gerçi o kadar çok şey yedik ki, belki yediklerimiz arasında vardı ama biz tanışamadan geçti belki de garibim…

– Brasserie de La Bourse http://www.restaurant-de-la-bourse.fr/

Dekorasyonunu, kaliteli personelini ve yemeklerini çok beğendiğimiz La Bourse‘yi çok tavsiye ederim. Her öğünde olduğu gibi Tarte Flambe’mizi ve Foie Gras’mızı yedik. Ek olarak tavsiye edildiği üzere Choucroute ve Boucheé a la Reine, Spaetzele gibi tipik yemekleri tattık. Alsace bölgesinin meşhur şarabı Reisling şarabını içmeyi ihmal etmedik. Benim gibi biraz aromatik ve tatlı şarap sevenler için şahane bir şaraptı. Bir bilen tarafından verilen Şarap tavsiyelerini yazının sonunda bulabilirsiniz.

– La Corde à Linge Cafe http://www.lacordealinge.com/

Kanala ve tarihi evlere bakan bu cafede bir fincan café Alsacien içmemiz çok tavsiye edilmişti ama 3 günde yapılacaklar, yenilecekler sınırlı.

– Brasserie Les Haras http://www.les-haras-brasserie.com/

Gitmenizi ısrarla tavsiye edeceğim bir yerel restaurant daha. Burası 18’inci yüzyıldan kalma bir at ahırıymış ve henüz geçen yıl restorana dönüştürülmüş. Şehrin kalbinin biraz dışında kalabileceğini söyleyebileceğim Les Haras‘a taksiyle taam 10 dakikada gidiliyor. 🙂 Mutlaka akşam yemeği için ve biraz şık gitmenizi öneririm. Biz ilk akşam yol yorgunluğu üzerine gittiğimiz ve haliyle çok çirkin çıktığımız için (burda çoğul tabir kullandığıma bakmayın, tabi ki ben çirkin çıktığım için paylaşmıyorum) fotoğraf koyamıyorum. Hem açık alanı, hem restaurant alanı, hem de barı olan bu büyük mekanın genel havası çok güzeldi. Kendi sayfalarından arakladığım iki fotoyu koyayım da ki fikriniz olsun. 

Yediğimiz güzel yemeklerden birkaç foto koymak gerekirse

Başlangıç mönüsünde tavsiye edilen kazciğerli, meyve garnitürlü sıcak tütsülenmiş yılan balığını, ana yemeklerde baharatla ovulmuş kuzu incik yanında tavuk, carpacio vb ne bulduysak yedik. Tatlıları ise yeme de yanında yat.

– Fink Stuebel  https://www.tripadvisor.com.tr/Restaurant_Review-g187075-d1322162-Reviews-Fink_Stuebel-Strasbourg_Bas_Rhin_Grand_Est.html

Kendi web sitesinde sorun var. O yüzden trip advisor sayfası koyuyorum.

Burası da çok görmek istediğim yerlerden biriydi ancak bu yazıyı okuyana kısmet olsun artık. Hardallı et haşlaması ya da Riesling şarabıyla tatlandırılmış tavuk yenilecek. Soğanlı, tereyağlı çörek, ardından fırınlanmış but, sosis ve dilimlenmiş et yenip Sibel’e teşekkür edilecek. Yalnız öyle kuru kuru içinizden teşekkür etmeyin, sonunda sitem yenilendi. Yorumlarınızı rahat rahat atabilirsiniz artık.

– 1741 Restaurant  https://www.1741.fr/en/

Bu seyahatte en çok parayı harcadığımız ama sonuna kadar değdiğini söyleyebileceğim  Michelin yıldızlı şahane bir yerdi 1741. Zaten menüleri çok farklı olduğu ve Michelin yıldızlı restaurant’larda bir tadım menüsü geldiği için pek fazla seçme şansınız olmuyor. Biz ortaya bölüşeceğimiz tabaklar getirin dedik ama herşeyden hepimize birer tane geldi. Dolayısıyla tabaklar küçük olsa da çok çeşit yediğimizden mide fesadı geçirmek üzereyken kalktık masadan. Muhtemelen menüleri de sıklıkla değiştiğinden size de tadım menüsü öneririm ancak 5 kişi gittiyseniz mutlaka 3 kişilikte ısrarcı olun.

Yemeklerin lezzetini ifade edecek kelimeler henüz bulunmadı. O yüzden görüyorsunuz ben birşey demiyorum, siz görüyorsunuz. 🙂

Yemeğe bir nefes arası verdiğimiz yerde mutlaka belirtmek istediğim kanalın kenarında kalan bu küçük yere mutlaka rezervasyon yapmalısınız. Ancak rezervasyon sırasında gelmeme ihtimalinize karşı 500euro depozit alıyorlar. O yüzden aman ha rezervasyonsuz gitmeyin; rezervasyon yaptırdıysanız da gitmemezlik etmeyin.

Hadi şimdi yemeye devam…

– L’Ancienne Douane http://anciennedouane.fr/ad-fr/

Buraya da gidemedik. Bak bir daha gelmeye gerek yok diyordum ama aklımda kalan birkaç yer için belki tekrar gitmeyi düşünebilirim. Floransa’ya o aklımda alan küçük restaurant için tekrar gitmedim mi?..

Artık yedik içtik patladık biraz da Strazburg’un etrafını gezelim ve küçük bir şehre aşık olmak ne demekmiş deneyimleyelim, öyle değil mi?

Colmar için tavsiye edilen Strazburg’dan araba kiralayıp küçük köyleri dolaşa dolaşa oraya gitmekti. Bu plana 1 kısa günümüzü ayırdığımız için en çok tavsiye edilen bir kasabayı seçtik ve yalnızca oraya gittik. Colmar’ı kalan 2 saate sıkıştırmayalım dedik. Bu arada Strazburg’da araba kiralamanın çok kolay ve ucuz olmadığını belirteyim. Tren istasyonunun hemen yanında, tüm araba kiralama şirketlerinin olduğu küçük bir ofis var. En uygun fiyatı Hertz verdi, biz de ordan günlük 150 euroya kiraladık. 5 kişi olunca fiyat makul ama 2 kişiye belki biraz pahalı gelebilir. Arabayı ofisten kiralayıp anahtarı alıp 100 mt ilerdeki katlı otoparkın en üst katından kendiniz teslim alıyorsunuz. Arabayı teslim ederken yine buraya bırakıp anahtarı ofisin önündeki küçük kutuya atıyorsunuz ama kutuyu bulmak bir meziyet.

Zamanı olanlar için diğer köy isimleri; Ribeauville, Equisheim ve Onernai.

Bir de Strazburg’a çok yakın, küçük Almanya ilçesi Kehl tavsiye edilmişti. Oradaki Aldi Süd marketi çok uygun fiyatlıymış. Pont de l’Europe (Avrupa Köprüsü)’nü geçerek Strazburg’tan Kehl’e ulaşılabiliyormuş. Bizim alışverişlik bir durumumuz olmadığı için gidemedik ama meraklısı için tavsiye olunur.

Öğlene doğru Riquewihr’e doğru yola çıktık. Söylenişi konusunda hiç uğraşmayın; Galatasaray’ı bir sezon çalıştıran ve hala kimsenin adını tam olarak söylemediği Reikerink gibi, Riquewihr de aynı öyle tuhaf isimli bir yer.

Bu küçücük kasabanın bu kadar tavsiye edilmesine ve turist çekmesine hiç şaşırmadık. O kadar güzel, o kadar canlı ve sıcak ki. Rengarenk eski evleri, pırıl pırıl sokakları, özellikle tadım yaptırılan şarap mahzenleri, peynir ve hediyelik eşya dükkanları… Fransa’ya gitmiş bir turistin aradığı her şey buradaydı. Burası adeta bir masal sahnesinden gerçek hayata ışınlanmış bir kasaba gibiydi.

Fotoğraf çekmelere doyamadık. Şansımıza yolda biraz yağmur yağmasına rağmen oraya gittiğimizde hava açtı. O yüzden ne üşüdük ne terledik, şahane vakit geçirdik Rikiwiki’de… Gülmeyin, söylemesi kolay bi kod isim bulmalıydık. 🙂

Öğlen yemeğini de burda tesadüfen gördüğümüz Michelin yıldızlı Jean Luc Brendel’de yemeğe karar verdik. https://www.jlbrendel.com/fr/

Rezervasyonumuz olmadığı halde kapıya gittik ve içeri girdik. Bizi nasıl süzüp kendi aralarında mütalaa edip öyle aldıklarına inanamazsınız. Bize cahil muamelesi yapıp neredeyse bu tabak bu çatal demeye vardırınca Sibel kardeşiniz Türk kanını yerde koymadı ve gerekli cevap verdi. Dünyayı gezsek de aşağıdaki renklere aşkımızı kimse sınamasın!

Konunun pek milli bir yanı yoktu ama hazır “yerli ve milli” sözleri bu kadar revaçtayken ben de nasipleneyim dedim,  ne var?..  🙂

Girişte artistlik yaptık ama mekan ve yemekler o kadar güzel ve etkileyiciydi ki… Duvarlarda orijinal ve çok iyi tablolar, masalar, renkler, herşey tam bir Michelin yıldızlı bir mekana yakışır nitelikteydi. Aynı zamanda çok güzel bir butik oteli olduğunu sonradan sitesine baktığımda öğrendiğim Jean Luc Brendel, bize pek puan vermedi ama biz ona 10 tam puan verdik diyebilirim.

Fotoğrafı güzel çıkmadı diye koymadım ama bir tatlıdan bahsetmeden edemeyeceğim. Görüntüsü marsmallow’e benzeyen ve kokusu olmayan o küçük tatlıyı yediğinizde ağzınıza bir tat geleceği yerde burnunuza koku geliyordu. Beşimizde de aynı şey oldu. Nasıl yapabildiklerini anlamadık ama vallahi aynen öyle oldu.

Şahane bir geziden ve nefis yemeklerden sonra karnımız tok sırtımız pek, mutlu mesut döndük Strazburg’a.

Ertesi gün trenle Colmar‘a gittik. Strazburg’dan Colmar’a yarım saat süren yolculuk 12,90 euro tuttu. Gidiş geliş yaklaşık 25 euro yani. Colmar tren istasyonuna indikten sonra 10 dakikalık bir yolculukla masalsı evlerin ve küçük bir kanalın olduğu Petit Venice yani küçük Venedik dedikleri bölgeye varıyorsunuz.

Oraya varmadan yol üstünde küçük bir meydanda çoğunlukla antika ve 2. el eşya satılan tezgahların olduğu bir halk pazarı vardı. Bunun hemen karşısında Le Hameau adında bir hediyelik eşya dükkanı vardı. Çok güzel olan bu dükkandan hediyelik eşya, kart, cd, shot bardağı vs. alışverişine kaptırdığımız için resim çekemedik ama bu küçük dükkana uğramadan dönmeyin.

Colmar’ın merkezine vardığınızda bir şehrin nasıl bu kadar güzel, nasıl bu kadar huzur verici olabildiğine inanamıyorsunuz. Colmar, şimdiye kadar gezdiğim en güzel, en romantik şehirlerden biriydi diyebilirim. Güzel bir Mayıs günü gidilecek en güzel şehirlerden biriymiş. Burası aynı zamanda Noel’in simge şehirlerindenmiş ve inanılmaz süsleniyormuş. Saffet Emre Tonguç buraya Noel pazarları turları düzenliyor, anlayın nasıl havalı bir yer olduğunu. Noel’de ne kadar daha güzel olabileceğini düşünemiyorum.

1 saat sürdüğü ve saat başı kalktığı için Strazburg’da kanal turu yapamamıştık ama Colmar’da küçük kayıklarla yapılan ve toplam 15 dakika süren kanal turunu yaptık. Buraya gelen herkese mutlaka bu turu yapmalarını öneririm. Şehrin içinde nispeten temiz su, temiz  ve doğal bir çevre içinde yapılan gezimiz paha biçilemez güzellikteydi.

Tur teknesi diyeceğim kayıklar 8 kişilikti ve kişi başı 6 euroydu. Kısa bir tur için çok gelmesin mutlaka verin ve en güzel fotoğrafları yakalayacağınız bu fırsatı kaçırmayın.

Gitmeden bir belgeselde gördüğüm ama gidemediğim birkaç müzeyi yazıyorum; meraklıları mutlaka gitsin.

– Underlinden Müzesi – Ihlamurlar Altında Müzesi

Eski bir manastırdan müzeye çevrilen bu müzede eski eserler, mobilyalar, eski eşyalar, resim vb. pek çok eser sergileniyor ve sanatsal etkinlikler düzenleniyormuş.

– Bartholdi Müzesi – Özgürlük Heykeli’ni yapan Bartholdi’nin yaşadığı evi müze haline getirmişler. Bilmeyenler için Özgürlük Anıtı’nın hikayesini kısaca anlatayım;

  1. yüzyılda Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’nun toprağı olan Mısır’ın Valisi Said Paşa’nın Fransız mühendis Ferdinand de Lesseps’e 1854’te hazırlattığı ve Akdeniz ile Kızıldeniz’i birbirine bağlayacak olan Süveyş Kanalı projesi için bir de heykel yapılmasına karar verildi. Sultan Abdülaziz’in izin verdiği projeye göre heykel, firavunlar zamanının giysilerine bürünmüş bir kadın şeklinde olacak ve elinde ‘Asya’nın ışığının Mısır’dan geldiğini’ sembolize eden bir meşale tutacaktı. Paşa ve mühendis, eseri Fransa’nın tanınmış heykeltraşlarından olan Frederic Auguste Bartholdi’ye sipariş ettiler ve bir hayli de avans ödediler. Bartholdi işe başladı ve heykeli kısa sürede hazırladı. Ancak Said Paşa’dan sonra Mısır’ın başına geçen İsmail Paşa müslüman bir memlekette böylesine büyük bir kadın heykelin dikilmesinin halk arasında hoşnutsuzluk yaratacağını düşündü ve heykelin Mısır’a getirilmemesi talimatını verdi. Süveyş Kanalı 1869’da büyük ama ‘heykelsiz’ bir törenlerle açıldı. Bartholdi’nin heykeli ise Paris’te bir depoya kondu. O yıllarda Paris’te kurulan Fransız-Amerikan dostluğu adına Fransız Hükümeti, Amerikalılara dostluğun göstergesi için bir hediye gönderilmesine karar verdi. Heykel bir elinde hukuku simgeleyen bir kitap tutacak, diğer elinde de ‘dünyayı aydınlatan özgürlüğün sembolü’ olan bir meşale taşıyacaktı. Sipariş gene aynı heykeltraşa, Bartholdi’ye verildi. Bartholdi’nin eseri zaten hazırdı ve senelerden beri bir depoda beklemedeydi. Bartholdi, heykeli ufak tefek revizyonlarla 1884’te Fransız hükümetine teslim etti.  Bartholdi, New York’a yanına Süveyş Kanalı’nın mühendisi ve heykelin fikir babası olan Ferdinand de Lesseps’le birlikte gitti ve 25 Ekim 1886’daki törende eserinin açılışını bizzat kendisi yaptı.

New York’da heykelin şimdiki yerinde yıllar önce çektirdiğim fotoğrafım photoshop gibi durmuş ama eski sistem selfieler böyle oluyordu. 🙂

Bir de burası leyleklerin memleketiymiş. Her yerde gerçek ya da canlandırma leylek yuvaları ve leylek heykelleri vardı. Burda leylekleri genellikle otururken gördük ama hadi bakalım…

Colmar’da çok tavsiye edilen Michelin yıldızlı bir restauranta 10 gün öncesinden sormama rağmen tüm Mayıs ayı için dolu olduğunu öğrenmiştim. Colmar gibi 120.000 nüfuslu bir yerde tüm Mayıs dolu ne demek diye merak ettik tabi. Her Türk’ün yapacağı şekilde kapıya kadar gidip hiç mi yer yok dedik mi dedik. E o zaman giremedik, bari fotoğrafını çekelim dedik.

JY’S Restaurant    http://www.jean-yves-schillinger.com/

Alsace bölgesinde rezervasyonsuz hiçbir yerde yer bulunmadığı için başka bir yere rezervasyon yaptırmıştım ama planladığımızdan geç gidince mutfak kapanıyor diye almadılar.  Aux Trois Poisson resturant da hemen kanala bakan yol üstünde ve çok şık duran bir yerdi ama burası da kısmet olmadı.   http://www.aux-trois-poissons.fr/

Biz de bunun üstüne normalde pek tercih etmediğimiz ama manzarası hatırına kanalın hemen üstünde yer alan aşağıdaki turistik yere oturduk.

İşimiz de şansa bırakmadık ve tarte flambe yedik. Çok beğendik. Hatta girişi hemen arkasındaki  Le Marche Couvert isimli halk pazarı gibi yerin içinde olduğu için kalktıktan sonra pazardan uygun fiyatlı alışverişler de yaptık. http://www.marche-couvert-colmar.fr/

Colmar’da


Auberge Brasserie  https://www.grand-hotel-bristol.com/

ve

La Maison des Tetes    http://www.la-maison-des-tetes.com/

isimli restaurantlar da tavsiye edilmişti. Arşive atalım bakalım.

Colmar küçücük bir yer olduğu için 3 gün kalmak fazla olurmuş ama evet. Ancak size tavsiyem en fazla 2 gece – 3 günlük bir program yapıp direkt Colmar’a gitmeniz. Orda kalıp diğer köylere burdan gidip gelmeniz. Özellikle bir Noel zamanı tekrar gelmek üzere Colmar’ı en favori şehirlerim arasına alıyorum.

Şimdi tekrar bakıyorum da Strazburg’u o kadar beğenmeme sebebim Colmar’ın çok güzel olması sanırım. Adriana Lima varken Paris Hilton’a kim bakar değil mi? 🙂

Gelelim yazının başında bahsettiğim şarap tavsiyelerine;

En en iyi şaraplar Alsace Grand Cru bağlarından gelen şaraplardır.

En önemli üzüm Riesling. Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc ve Muscat da mutlaka denenmeli.

Etikette Vendange Tardive yazıyorsa geç hasat olduğu anlamına gelir. Çoğunlukla tatlıdır.

Selection de Grains Nobles yazıyorsa küften etkilenmiş olağanüstü güzellikte tatlı şaraplardır.

Moelleux dömisek anlamında kullanılır.

Bu terimler etikette yoksa kuvvetle muhtemel sektir.

Ayrıca Cremant D’Alsace denilen güzel köpürenleri vardır.

Onun dışında Hugel, Trimbach, Zind Humbrecht, Schulumberger çok çok iyi üreticilerdir.

Hepsi iyi güzel de ben aşağıdaki şaraptan istiyorum. :)))

Strazburg dikkatle, Colmar ve Rikiwiki şiddetle  tavsiye olunur.

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